Ahh…. The south of France..it’s so magical and romantic I could die.
I’m sitting here in our airy room in a little guest house in Marseille looking out over the tiny balcony, watching a pink sombre sun melt away behind the rose tinted buildings. There’s a g&t beside me, my iPod is wafting cool soft tunes through the early night air and I have the smug and self congratulatory air of someone who just killed it at the gym and now is about to head out on the town to see what new and exciting things there are to discover.
I’ve probably said this about every place we’ve been to but there is something special about France. Maybe it’s because the food feeds my soul, the language fascinates and charms me, the architecture humbles me, the weather is hot and balmy and the people live life to the fullest.
Im always so inspired when I’m here to be more creative, do, write, compose, create, learn something new and wonderful. And no exception this time either.
Our trip around the south of france has brought us to Toulouse firstly – la ville rose, the pink city. It’s buildings created for hundreds of years from mud bricks made locally giving the vast majority of buildings a wonderful pink hue. The city is a glorious rose tinted destination for the French but has maintained it’s air of palpable history, charm and adventure. Everyone asks us why we went to Toulouse but it’s really beautiful when you get there. We stayed at he hotel de grand balcon. Very highly recommended.
Anyway, after two days in Toulouse, exploring the city, we caught a train to Agen, passing through some incredible fortified cities such as carcasonne and nime. It was 36 degrees outside but perfect for a 5 hr long train journey in a well air conditioned train. I spent the time expanding my french vocab and finishing my book.
Once in Agen, we met up with an old friend Max who drove us to our chateau which we were staying for a couple of nights which was indeed everything you would expect in a southern french chateau: old, charming, comfortable, impressive and beautiful. It’s called chateau de l’loste for anyone who might be around Agen and looking for somewhere to stay. Beautiful rooms although be warned, the small rooms have no air con which can mean hot, sticky nights (not in the good way).
We had a beautiful time at the chateau and spent long afternoons reading and napping while the evening was taken up with dinner, drinks and long walks around the grounds.
On one particular night we spent the afternoon over at another chateau not too far away where Max and co where staying. We ended up having a wonderful meal (thanks Ant) followed by charades which all made for a very fun night. D and I had rode there on our bikes so after charades, and being full of wine and bravado we headed out into the quiet moonlit countryside to ride home – about 2am.
Now you would think that because there was a full waxing moon in the sky, the trip home would be easier but as D and I rode over those long straight and utterly silent roads in between vast fields of haricot vert and corn, we both got a bit nervy. We felt completely exposed by the blazing moon which illuminated these fields in a very erie and spooky manner. We were also the only ones on the otherwise deserted roads and it wasn’t until we rode into the safety of the chateau grounds that D tells me that he was freaking out about seeing something weird in one of the moonlit fields.
“something weird’ like what?” i asked.
“oh, a headless horseman, or a murder, or someone running up to us” he says.
Well thank god we were inside the chateau by this point as I have a very vivid imagination and was starting to feel a bit nervy myself. But that wasn’t the worst of it…..we started to walk up the grand staircase in the dark and deserted chateau and it was at this point that i saw my first ghost.
This is how is happened. We got to the top landing where we would normally turn off down a corridor to our room but at the top of the stairs I got a very creepy feeling all of a sudden. My hair stood on end and I suppressed a weird feeling of dread and panic. As i looked up at a group of chairs which were sitting under the window on the landing i swear i saw a women sitting quite formally and upright on one of the chairs. I looked again knowing that I must be imagining it but the more I scrutinised the chair, the easier I could see the outline of her dress and more scarily, the place where her head would have been. There was a strange moonlight there shining on that spot so i put it down to that and rushed past to the room feeling freaked out and a bit silly.
The next day i casually mentioned this to D who immediately told me he had seen the same thing exactly! Freaky.
Anyway, we survived. :)) And later left the chateau for Marseille which is we are now. Its so different to many other French cities in that it’s a bit dirtier and grubbier but also it edgier and actually has a cool vibe which most other french cities seem to lack..
Anyway, must go. Must have an early night as getting up early to drive to mont saint-Michel or perhaps Lyon.
Btw some of the weirder photos below are D and I amusing ourselves with props in a very quiet bar one night. Oops!